Izmir's central areas, such as Konak and Alsancak, are highly walkable with well-maintained pedestrian paths leading to a variety of shops, cafes, and attractions. The presence of the scenic Kordon promenade enhances the walking experience, providing a pleasant route for leisurely strolls. Although some outer or hilly areas require transport, most daily activities are easily accessible on foot for those staying centrally, making Izmir a convenient city to navigate without needing a car.
Izmir boasts a robust public transit system comprising metro lines, an extensive bus network (ESHOT), commuter rails (İZBAN), trams, and ferries. The 'Izmirim Card' simplifies transit by offering seamless access across all modes, with perks like free transfers within 90 minutes. The metro connects efficiently to major destinations, including the airport, while the trams and ferries offer scenic, convenient travel options within the city. This makes Izmir highly realistic for exploring and commuting, especially for travelers without cars.
Though not renowned as a biking city, Izmir is progressively developing its bike-friendly infrastructure, including the BİSİM bike-sharing system and around 40 km of dedicated bike lanes. Coastal bike routes provide enjoyable rides, while hilly terrains can pose challenges to less experienced riders. While improvements are ongoing, Izmir offers a good opportunity for biking, especially along flat or scenic areas, providing an alternative mode of exploring the city.
Izmir is off-the-radar of many tourists and nomads, but it has a lot to offer. It's relatively affordable, and it's warmer in the winter than many other parts of Türkiye, it has good public transit, decent food and shopping options, and reliably fast and stable internet. It's also a good jumping-off point for a day trip to Çeşme and several Greek islands that can be reached by ferry. You can pay by card nearly everywhere except the Izmir Metro, Izban — even for small purchases of 50¢ (currently 16TL)
Things that might turn you off:
1. This is not an English speaking city, even among the young university population. You can get by, but you are unlikely to strike up intricate conversations with most locals unless you're attending a language exchange meetup or hanging out near an English school. If however, you are looking for language immersion, I can recommend a homestay and/or making friends with locals here.
2. Turkish people love to smoke. If you want to hang out at a cafe and work, particularly outside most people are lighting up.
3. Internet in Türkiye is censored. Even sites like Booking aren't available without a VPN. The big ones that the government knows about may also be blocked. On the same note, connecting to public wifi requires personal information including your passport, and to be able to receive SMS 2FA, so if your foreign SIM does not have service, you can't use these APs.
4. Pork is really only available at the upmarket Macrocenter supermarket. Every restaurant offers halal as a default, and their version of pepperoni or sausage is all beef based. Beer and liquor, however, are available in every corner store and supermarket. I don't know why.
If you do decide to buy a Turkish SIM, only Tourist plans are available to foreigners without residency, with an inflated price of $21 just for the SIM and activation. (Though the data packages can be competitive.) Therefore, for short visits, it might be more economical to use one of these world roaming eSIMS, which I don't normally recommend.
I wouldn't recommend using the expat FB groups to find short or long-term housing because they are cryptic and never list the price in the ad. Though maybe you'll ask around and find one by word-of-mouth instead and get a better deal, more in line with Turkish incomes.
Lastly, do try to integrate in your local community and chat up locals. Don't be the digital nomad that doesn't talk to anyone. You can live anywhere. This doesn't mean that you need to behave like the place you left behind.
I've lived in İzmir for more than 10 years, so I have the need to say some things that may be valuable to one or the other. Izmir is the most liveable city in Turkey. It's less religious, (therefore) more open to foreigners and just more fun! We have a racism problem, but not against any European, or American. It's more about being associated with other muslim ethnicities like Arabs, Afghans etc. and also because many of these groups cause economic issues in the country - it's complicated.
About the positive stuff: Izmir is for sure a better option than Istanbul, which is waay to packed and crowded. Of course Izmir is crowded too, but not nearly as Istanbul. Yes, people are very friendly, that's just part of turkish culture. It's not 100% safe, since the whole country is still dealing with poverty and has gone trough many crisisis. But I would say, just like any other country/city, it should be fine if you are careful where you place your personal belongings and are not outside after it's getting darker (especially as a woman). Overall, Izmır is very special and should be given a chance 100000%.
Pros
- cheap: lunch for 1 person for less than USD10, grande cappuccino in Starbucks for less than USD2
- good cafes and restaurants, for them go to Mustafa Enver Bey street in Alsancak, to Cengiz Topel street in Bostanli, or to Hilltown, Mavibahce, and Istinye Park malls
- a big city with skyscrapers in the financial district, good public transportation including metro, trams, buses, and ferries, and big malls, but slower, cheaper, more relaxed, and less crowded than Istanbul
- great climate, historic attractions, and perfect beaches and kitesurfing spots in a 30 to 60 minutes drive.
- liberal and cosmopolitan city, with many bars and nightclubs. No problem to buy alcoholic drinks in any supermarket. Also, there are several good wineries near the city where you can go for a wine tour.
- wonderful friendly people who will love your children as their own
- fast and reasonably priced mobile internet (but do not buy a sim card in the airport)
Cons
- in many parts of the city it is not convenient to walk: pavements are mostly narrow and bumpy and traffic lights work in a weird way
- not so many people speak English, but usually, people are friendly and open to communicating via google translator
- not enough options for short-term accommodation: several good Airbnbs and expensive hotels of international chains are good. Unfortunately, I didn't find any good hostels there. And economic hotels are mostly outdated and usually based in depressive neighborhoods. Hope the situation will change soon.
- many neighborhoods look depressive, but the city is developing and getting more attractive. While you are in Alsancak, Bostanli-Karsiyaka, or several places in Bornova and Bayrakli - everything is perfect and safe. By the way, Izmir is a very safe city.